Article via New York Times >>
Some beauty companies today are taking that idea to new extremes, with shampoos, conditioners and other hair products edging into fine-perfume territory. Woodsy musks and spiced-up vanillas are trumping fruity-fragranced lathers, and the bottles have prices to match.
It was around a year ago, said Michael Carby, a perfumer at Givaudan, a major fragrance producer, that he began noticing more requests from corporate clients for sophisticated hair-care scents. Before, the fragrances were typically “a single note, an apple particularly, like in Herbal Essences,” said Mr. Carby, a 20-year industry veteran. “It gives a fresh and clean effect.” But not, apparently, a distinctive one. The last few years, “every shampoo or conditioner fragrance started with an apple or a pear,” Mr. Carby said. “Even a cucumber fragrance had an apple in there in some way, shape or form.”
But now a growing niche of luxury hair-care brands, some founded by famous stylists like Oribe and Serge Normant and sold in salons or upscale department stores, use complex aroma to stand out from the mass-market stuff in drugstores. And for customers, this is yet another potential status marker. “You wouldn’t want to leave the salon smelling like Pert,” Mr. Carby said. While some women these days are avoiding added fragrance in cosmetics applied to the skin (common in their grandmothers’ time but frowned upon by organizations like the Environmental Working Group), they seem more carefree about spritzing chemicals on their hair.
Indeed, Yann Marois, executive director of global marketing at Ojon, which is known for its fragrant conditioners, said that there’s perhaps an unglamorous reason for the stronger scents: the need to mask natural odors. Women today are getting “more and more chemical treatments,” Mr. Marois said. “Because they have damaged hair, they wash their hair less. And to expand time between washes, they want scents that will last.”
He pointed to the popularity of hair oils (like Kérastase’s Elixir Ultime, $42 for 250 milliliters), intended for women with damaged hair, which tend to have the strongest scents, he said.
“The Ojon oil itself has a smell and the product is created over fire, so the scent is smoky, a little bit like coffee,” said Mr. Marois, speaking of the Restorative Hair Treatment ($33 for 3.1 ounces). “Some people loved the scent, but it was also polarizing. To be honest, some people hated it.” Ojon kept the original treatment on the shelves, while working on a milder scent of soft vanilla, which was released a couple of years ago, and sales of the two versions are now about equal, Mr. Marois said. Vanilla is also a component of Thierry Mugler Angel, a best-selling and long-lasting Oriental perfume that has inspired many of the new hair formulas, Mr. Carby said. In fact, Mugler was ahead of the curve, introducing its hair mist, which retails for $39 for 1 fluid ounce, in the early 1990s after a loyal customer of the perfume requested it, said Amber Mitilineos, director of marketing at the company.
More currently, Mr. Carby spent months concocting an intense, decadent-smelling fragrance for Show Beauty, a collection of styling products (including a perfume to be sprayed on hair) to be sold at Bergdorf Goodman starting in late September.Based on English rose and on what he called “a playful crème brûlée,” it is backed by Tamara Ecclestone, the British socialite. The scent was meant to be “powerful and enveloping,” said Ms. Ecclestone’s business partner, Scott Harvey-Nicholls, the chief executive of Show Beauty, but “not completely domineering.” But the heady fumes lingered well into the next day after a reporter tried the treatment oil ($55 for a hefty flacon).
Oribe strove to avoid such an olfactory wallop, said Daniel Kaner, president and a founder of the company. “Most people, the first thing they do with shampoo is they unscrew the cap and smell it,” Mr. Kaner said. “And once the consumer smells it, it then has to pass the first test, which is ‘Does it offend me?’ ”Mr. Kaner and his colleagues settled on a perfume-quality blend featuring yuzu zest (“citrus notes are crowd pleasers,” he said) and butterfly jasmine, the Cuban national flower (Oribe, the Miami-based hairdresser, is Cuban-American).
Founded in 2008, the company this April released a “hair refresher” that works like a sort of deluxe Febreze for the mane. The purse-size spray ($22 for 1.6 ounces) contains cetrimonium chloride, a conditioning agent, and supposedly absorbs odors while leaving the Oribe scent (after a recent dinner out, it did a decent job of dulling eau de Korean barbecue). In May, Kathie Lee Gifford heralded the product on “Today” as one of her favorite things.
Kattia Solano, founder of Butterfly Studio in the Flatiron district, which recently began stocking Oribe, said that “there are people that love fragrance and some that don’t, so I always have my clients smell the product before applying it on them.”
Still, a dedicated fragrance for hair is now in the pipeline, Mr. Kaner said. And it will have competition.
Serge Normant Avah perfume for hair and skin ($60 for 1.7 fluid ounces), which arrived in stores in June 2012, is a concentrated version of the line’s signature musk, jasmine and ylang-ylang scent. It has won over his celebrity clients like Julia Roberts, said Mr. Normant, adding that perfumes are a particular passion of his. “I grew up with Opium and the old Guerlain perfumes,” he said. “They were scents with a point of view.” Several perfume brands, like Marchesa, Narciso Rodriguez, Clean and even Justin Bieber, have also come out with hair mists — perhaps at the peril of passers-by with sensitive noses.
“You want just a hint of something personal,” Mr. Normant said. “The last thing you would want is to give people a headache.”
Tips for iconic eyes by Kevyn Aucoin - who is known for the winged cat eye, a classic and timeless look that never goes out of style!
• SINGLE EYE SHADOW (#101, #102, #103)
• SHIMMER SHADOW (ROSE QUARTZ)
• SCULPTING POWDER
• CELESTIAL POWDER “CANDLELIGHT”
• PRECISION LIQUID LINER
• VOLUME MASCARA
• EYE LASH CURLER
• PRECISION BROW LINER “BRUNETTE”
1. Apply Eye Shadow Single all over eyelid from lash to brow
2. Blend Loose Shimmer Shadow in crease
3. Apply Sculpting Powder with Small Eye Shadow Brush or Small Eye Shadow Flat Tip in your deep crease stop at corner of eye
4. Apply Celestial Powder/Candelight on brow bone and the ball of eye lid with Soft Round Tip Brush
5. Glide Precision Liquid Liner to top of lash line to create an upturned eye that adds instant drama
*Butterfly’s makeup artists can teach you how to create the perfect line for your eye shape…ask us!
6. Curl lashes with the award winning Kevyn Aucoin Eye Lash Curler – named “Best of Beauty” by Allure in 2012, 2011, 2005, 2004, 2003 & 2002
7. Apply two coats of mascara to top and bottom lashes for volume, length & definition
Secure & wrap your ponytail extention
We’re not surprised that faux ponytails have become so popular. A fake pony has always been a beauty secret of the pros, and we believe every woman should consider embracing one! They come to the rescue on bad hair days and give you more options for bringing out that fab individual style of yours. Besides, who doesn’t like the feeling of longer, thicker hair – even for just a few hours!? Use it as a fashion accessory, a lengthy extention for short haircuts, adding thickness for finer hair types, and even for extra support to keep an updo lasting… They can be just the thing your hair needs to achieve that look you’ve had your eyes on. With Butterfly’s selection of synthetic ponytails, we first match your hair color from a wide range of shades and then customize your pony’s length and texture with an expert cut! Hot tools on low heat can be applied to set the fake strands, creating a sleek pony or bouncy lengths with a curl/wave. Our high quality styles can support going back and forth between both and can last for months with proper care. With so many ways to adjust and play, the attaching piece can feel and look tailor-made for you on any occasion. It’s just another way to help make styling at home very simple – and can be applied in just a few easy steps.
1 After matching your color (we recommend a consultation with an expert stylist or colorist to start) create a tight pony on your own hair, making sure to collect the hair well and apply with a band.
2 Secure the comb attached to your faux ponytail right on top of your real ponytail.
3 Wrap the velcro tightly (this is important) around the base of the pony.
4 Continue to wrap around base until you are left with just the ends and secure with a bobby pin.
5 You’re ready to wear your beautiful, full, long length pony! You can also play with your lengths by braiding, separating into knot sections with small elastics, or using a curling iron on the ends to create more texture or party waves (safe to use with low heat irons, both round and flat). Use the thickness of your extention to your advantage and create full buns/knots, twists, fishtails, etc. The extra hair works as a foundation for hold, keeping the style in tact while giving that picture perfect result. Go ahead and try an online hair tutorial, because now you’ve got the hair for it!
6 (optional) For something different, really transform your look by adding in a faux bang or incorporate a ponytail accessory (like a fun headscarf or chic hair cuff) for the full effect!
(Photo credit: Larry Busacca)
Butterfly Studio stylist Dana Tizzio had the priviledge of getting Broadway Legend Patti LuPone’s hair effortlessly perfect for this year’s Tonys! Dana says Patti “just wanted to be herself,” so a sleek blow out with a bit of movement was in order to keep her hair looking easy and not too done. Going with something simple and more “you” can sometimes be the best thing to compliment an outfit overall. You’ll always look the best in something you’re most comfortable in. We fully agree with the hair down decision – her cut is the ideal length to pull off the fresh feeling of the style, especially with the fun fringe! To get straight locks with a bit of bend like Patti’s just right, Dana recommends applying a roller set to prevent any chance of a flat hair moment later on. Setting the hair offers the right amount of body and foundation to keep the style lasting all night. The star product used to achieve the look was Shu Uemura’s Volume Maker, an invisible texturizing powder stick. Dana dusted Volume Maker mainly on the roots to create the right amount of height and help her hair’s texture keep the overall structure of the style in place. “It’s like magic,” she says!