Article via New York Times >>
Some beauty companies today are taking that idea to new extremes, with shampoos, conditioners and other hair products edging into fine-perfume territory. Woodsy musks and spiced-up vanillas are trumping fruity-fragranced lathers, and the bottles have prices to match.
It was around a year ago, said Michael Carby, a perfumer at Givaudan, a major fragrance producer, that he began noticing more requests from corporate clients for sophisticated hair-care scents. Before, the fragrances were typically “a single note, an apple particularly, like in Herbal Essences,” said Mr. Carby, a 20-year industry veteran. “It gives a fresh and clean effect.” But not, apparently, a distinctive one. The last few years, “every shampoo or conditioner fragrance started with an apple or a pear,” Mr. Carby said. “Even a cucumber fragrance had an apple in there in some way, shape or form.”
But now a growing niche of luxury hair-care brands, some founded by famous stylists like Oribe and Serge Normant and sold in salons or upscale department stores, use complex aroma to stand out from the mass-market stuff in drugstores. And for customers, this is yet another potential status marker. “You wouldn’t want to leave the salon smelling like Pert,” Mr. Carby said. While some women these days are avoiding added fragrance in cosmetics applied to the skin (common in their grandmothers’ time but frowned upon by organizations like the Environmental Working Group), they seem more carefree about spritzing chemicals on their hair.
Indeed, Yann Marois, executive director of global marketing at Ojon, which is known for its fragrant conditioners, said that there’s perhaps an unglamorous reason for the stronger scents: the need to mask natural odors. Women today are getting “more and more chemical treatments,” Mr. Marois said. “Because they have damaged hair, they wash their hair less. And to expand time between washes, they want scents that will last.”
He pointed to the popularity of hair oils (like Kérastase’s Elixir Ultime, $42 for 250 milliliters), intended for women with damaged hair, which tend to have the strongest scents, he said.
“The Ojon oil itself has a smell and the product is created over fire, so the scent is smoky, a little bit like coffee,” said Mr. Marois, speaking of the Restorative Hair Treatment ($33 for 3.1 ounces). “Some people loved the scent, but it was also polarizing. To be honest, some people hated it.” Ojon kept the original treatment on the shelves, while working on a milder scent of soft vanilla, which was released a couple of years ago, and sales of the two versions are now about equal, Mr. Marois said. Vanilla is also a component of Thierry Mugler Angel, a best-selling and long-lasting Oriental perfume that has inspired many of the new hair formulas, Mr. Carby said. In fact, Mugler was ahead of the curve, introducing its hair mist, which retails for $39 for 1 fluid ounce, in the early 1990s after a loyal customer of the perfume requested it, said Amber Mitilineos, director of marketing at the company.
More currently, Mr. Carby spent months concocting an intense, decadent-smelling fragrance for Show Beauty, a collection of styling products (including a perfume to be sprayed on hair) to be sold at Bergdorf Goodman starting in late September.Based on English rose and on what he called “a playful crème brûlée,” it is backed by Tamara Ecclestone, the British socialite. The scent was meant to be “powerful and enveloping,” said Ms. Ecclestone’s business partner, Scott Harvey-Nicholls, the chief executive of Show Beauty, but “not completely domineering.” But the heady fumes lingered well into the next day after a reporter tried the treatment oil ($55 for a hefty flacon).
Oribe strove to avoid such an olfactory wallop, said Daniel Kaner, president and a founder of the company. “Most people, the first thing they do with shampoo is they unscrew the cap and smell it,” Mr. Kaner said. “And once the consumer smells it, it then has to pass the first test, which is ‘Does it offend me?’ ”Mr. Kaner and his colleagues settled on a perfume-quality blend featuring yuzu zest (“citrus notes are crowd pleasers,” he said) and butterfly jasmine, the Cuban national flower (Oribe, the Miami-based hairdresser, is Cuban-American).
Founded in 2008, the company this April released a “hair refresher” that works like a sort of deluxe Febreze for the mane. The purse-size spray ($22 for 1.6 ounces) contains cetrimonium chloride, a conditioning agent, and supposedly absorbs odors while leaving the Oribe scent (after a recent dinner out, it did a decent job of dulling eau de Korean barbecue). In May, Kathie Lee Gifford heralded the product on “Today” as one of her favorite things.
Kattia Solano, founder of Butterfly Studio in the Flatiron district, which recently began stocking Oribe, said that “there are people that love fragrance and some that don’t, so I always have my clients smell the product before applying it on them.”
Still, a dedicated fragrance for hair is now in the pipeline, Mr. Kaner said. And it will have competition.
Serge Normant Avah perfume for hair and skin ($60 for 1.7 fluid ounces), which arrived in stores in June 2012, is a concentrated version of the line’s signature musk, jasmine and ylang-ylang scent. It has won over his celebrity clients like Julia Roberts, said Mr. Normant, adding that perfumes are a particular passion of his. “I grew up with Opium and the old Guerlain perfumes,” he said. “They were scents with a point of view.” Several perfume brands, like Marchesa, Narciso Rodriguez, Clean and even Justin Bieber, have also come out with hair mists — perhaps at the peril of passers-by with sensitive noses.
“You want just a hint of something personal,” Mr. Normant said. “The last thing you would want is to give people a headache.”
(Photo credit: Larry Busacca)
Butterfly Studio stylist Dana Tizzio had the priviledge of getting Broadway Legend Patti LuPone’s hair effortlessly perfect for this year’s Tonys! Dana says Patti “just wanted to be herself,” so a sleek blow out with a bit of movement was in order to keep her hair looking easy and not too done. Going with something simple and more “you” can sometimes be the best thing to compliment an outfit overall. You’ll always look the best in something you’re most comfortable in. We fully agree with the hair down decision – her cut is the ideal length to pull off the fresh feeling of the style, especially with the fun fringe! To get straight locks with a bit of bend like Patti’s just right, Dana recommends applying a roller set to prevent any chance of a flat hair moment later on. Setting the hair offers the right amount of body and foundation to keep the style lasting all night. The star product used to achieve the look was Shu Uemura’s Volume Maker, an invisible texturizing powder stick. Dana dusted Volume Maker mainly on the roots to create the right amount of height and help her hair’s texture keep the overall structure of the style in place. “It’s like magic,” she says!
Our Bang Bar gets a remix this Spring/Summer with more styling options and accessories. . .
After its recent success, we wanted to give our award-winning Bang Bar a little makeover! That’s why we’ve added dry styling, faux ponytails, and headscarfs to our menu – giving you a one stop shop to get fashionable and functional. We’re offering tutorials on how to wrap, weave, band, bow or “turban-up” your hairstyle with one of our Butterfly’s one kind collection of handmade headscarves & bands – accessories that we’ve made ourselves, every step of the way. Plus, they are absolutely time appropriate for the warm weather ahead. Head scarves protect hair (and scalp) from exposure and prevent color fade. It’s also a great way to tame bangs from bubbling or control frizz (especially around the hairline)! For hair that’s more fashion forward, we love the idea of weaving the ends of a scarf into your own strands. This adds fullness to a knot or a braid, length to a pony, or simply creates a beautiful twist or ‘do with a little element of print, color, or pattern.
Ponytails are always popular around this time of your for a low maintenance, pulled together look that can be dressed up or down. You already love the idea of wearing a noncommittal clip-in bang so we thought we’d offer the option to add a faux ponytail as an accessory for the night, too! Faux ponytails are an easy way to achieve that perfect fishtail or ponytail you have your eyes set on but don’t necessarily have the length or texture for. We customize ponytails with an expert cut and a style (wavy or straight), and highly recommend adding them in for an updo to keep structure in the hair and get the most out of any look. For a full transformation in one appointment, try a dry styling session and get that braid, ponytail, knot, or twist you’ve had your eye on. Amp it up by adding a matching bang, more lengths, a headscarf, or a mix of it all for a whole new you in minutes!
DRY STYLE (no shampoo pony/twist/braid/knot) – 15min $50+
PONYTAILS (w/ blow dry) – 45 mins $120+
TUTORIALS (headscarf wrapping/styling) – 15 mins $50+
*bring in your favorite scarf or purchase one of ours
FAUX PONYTAIL ADD-ON $130
FAUX BANG CLIP-IN $30-$80
BLOW OUT (shampoo service) 30-45 mins $68-$100
We’re incredibly excited to have been named “Bang Experts” and awarded “Best of NY 2013” by New York Magazine! Butterfly Studio founder and creative force Kattia Solano says she credits it all to the time our stylists have spent training in the art of bangs – things such as hair movement, framing the cut according to face shape, and mastering the skill of faking it with a faux fringe. The fact is bangs have become a trend with staying power – the main reason being that you can do so much with them, so they are always in style!
We created the Butterfly Bang Bar because we truly believe there is a bang out there for everyone – and it has since proved to be a huge success! We say that bangs should be thought of as the ultimate accessory…the easiest way to do something different while achieving an ever-changing, new look! To bang or not to bang? Read on for a list of our expert bang tips before making your decision . . .